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It’s been a slow year for the growth of many alcoholic categories, however, sake’s popularity continues to surge throughout the globe.
In 2024, sake — the alcoholic beverage brewed from fermented rice — experienced steady growth around the globe with exports extending to a record high of 80 countries, according to OhBEV marketing agency.
North America comprised 29 percent of sake’s total export value, which proved a dominant drive of the category’s global expansion. And as of this year, the British supermarket chain, Waitrose, reported a 241 percent surge in searches for sake as the drink is predicted to become the next big trend in the UK.
With the category experiencing momentous growth, we asked a number of beverage experts to share the must-have Japanese sake brands from classics to rare pours that would impress any connoisseur.
Kubota
Brewed by Asahi Shuzo Sake Brewing Company, Kenta Katagai, the executive chef at Sushi @ Temple Records in Boston, Mass. describes Kubota as “the king of sake.” The Nagoya, Japan native specifically points to the Manju style as “the most elegant and refined sake of the Kubota series.”
Hakurakusei
In the Miyagi prefecture, a young woman toji (master brewer) is reinventing the historic, family-run brewery, Niizawa Shuzo, to create the ultimate food sake, according to Courtney Kaplan, co-owner and beverage director of OTOTO, Camélia and Tsubaki in Los Angeles. “Their Hakurakusei Tokubetsu Junmai is a real utility player, perfect with almost all types of food and impeccably balanced with every element perfectly in place.”
Kozaemon
If you’re looking for a starting point for a “classical and traditional sake,” Kodai and Yudai Uno, owners of Shirube in Santa Monica, suggest Kozaemon Junmai, produced by Nakajima Brewing Company. “You get the bold flavor of rice [with] lots of umami and nice acidity to balance it out.”
Dassai
Dassai is one of Japan’s leading breweries, according to Vicky Vecchione, sake sommelier and head of bars at Sticks’n’Sushi, the Danish-Japanese restaurant group. Vecchione points to their 45 Nigori as it is “smooth, milky, and gently sweet with a fruity undertone.” She adds: “Its versatility shines across a wide range of dishes — from creamy puddings and spicy laksa noodles to fruit salads and grilled calamari.”
IWA
Former chef de cave of Dom Pérignon Champagne crafts this line in collaboration with Shiraiwa K.K. Brewery’s expert toji in the Toyama prefecture. It’s often referred to as “a wine-lover’s sake” for its rich layers and finesse. Ryan Vando, U.S. regional head of wine for Zuma, especially highlights IWA 5 ‘Assemblage 4’ Junmai Daiginjo. “This sake evolves beautifully across temperatures—from chilled to warm—offering different aromatic expressions.” He recommends pairing it with robata meats, miso-glazed black cod.
Takeda
“There’s a quiet confidence to this one,” prefaces Josh Clouser, food and beverage adviser of Takibi in Portland, Oregon. He highlights Takeda Black Skull Honjozo Nama as “the kind of sake that keeps you guessing, shifting with each sip, revealing something new every time you come back to it and pairs well with salads and sushi.” The rice comes from just up the road, just about 20 minutes away, and the brewery leans into its own proprietary yeast, which adds a signature twist.
Miyoshino Jozo
The Miyoshino Jozo brewery is located in the Yoshino region of Nara prefecture where cherry trees cover the surrounding hills. “The brewer Teruaki Hashimoto is committed to local agriculture and has determined not to burden local farmers with the difficulty and risk of cultivating hard-to-grow varieties,” explains Marc Lioussane, co-owner of Selune in Brooklyn. He embraces old-school brewing methods, uses whatever rice the farmers grow and adjusts his methods to bring out the best flavor, and uses only natural yeasts to portray the local environment — or a sense of terroir — in his sake.
Hakkaisan
“Sparkling sake is really unique,” says Katagai, who particularly appreciates Hakkaisan Brewing Company’s Hakkaisan AWA. “It’s very special,” he says, describing its cloudy and creaminess with a simultaneous crisp finish. “It’s a nice way to finish a meal and a great sake for the summer.”
Heiwa
Run by a fourth generation president, Heiwa Shuzo Brewery “is pushing boundaries while still maintaining a commitment to quality,” says Kaplan. She points to their line of fruit sakes called tsuru-ume as low ABV and perfect for picnics. Try mixing them with club soda for a zesty spritz, she advises.
Sake Ono
Only a little over a year old, Sake Ono has splashed onto the sake scene with their clean, crisp Junmai Daiginjo. “One of the most versatile sakes (and ideal mixed in a cocktail) this sake features a refreshing profile with hints of lactic acidity,” says Vecchione. “It’s perfect as an aperitif and a natural companion to any aperitivo food such as olives, charcuterie, cheeses, and focaccia.”
Terada Honke
This Chiba prefecture-based brewery produces a Daigo no Shizuku by using the medieval method of bodaimoto so that it’s a modern reflection of what sake tasted like 600 years ago, explains Lioussane. The brewer read journals that said sakes were slightly sweet back then so expect “a very unique sake that tastes like a sweet Vouvray.”
Kaze no Mori
An unpasteurized sake with an effervescent finish, the Uno brothers recommend this sake from Yucho Brewing Company as an aperitif for its “lively and fresh” palate.
